Art Nouveau Enamel Iris Victorian Watch Pin
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A Victorian era brooch, fitted with a hook for suspending a ladies pendant watch. This brooch takes the form of an open shield, with a feathery iris at its center. The iris's petals are decorated with gradient pastel pink, lavender and gold enamel, and its center is set with a glittering white diamond. The shield is made with the graceful, fluid lines and flourishes typical of Art Nouveau; the brooch face is carved and finished with buttery matte texture in the recesses. An iris tendril spirals out from behind the shield. Pin stem, hinge and locking c-catch are original. This does not have a goldsmith's mark, but it is American and has everything in common with the work of Newark jewelers of the period (Krementz, Whiteside & Blank, etc.). Marked 10k.
In the Victorian language of flowers an iris symbolizes faith and valor. Irises are an uncommon subject in enameled flower jewelry. This wears well as a pendant, on a close-fitting chain.
10k yellow gold
There is some enamel loss on the inner lobes of the lower petals of the iris— because of the soft gradient nature of the enameling, this isn't noticeable in wear.
Measures 30mm x 18.6 mm. Diamond measures 3 mm (approx 10 points, or .10 carats).