Georgian Era Diamond Sapphire & Enamel Mourning Ring with Stars in 15k Gold
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A wonderful, Georgian-era mourning ring, modeled in yellow gold, whose large, scalloped, shuttle-shaped face is decorated with a motif of five-pointed stars, and curling forms, that float in a field of glossy black enamel. This unusual, celestial decor reads like a border, or frame, for the ring's cluster of gemstones, which are set atop the enameled plaque, in cut-down silver collets. The six, primary, old mine cut diamonds are white and lively, with steep crown facets, open culets, and small tables; the five natural sapphires (deeply-saturated, medium-dark blue) are arranged in a cruciform manner amidst them. Eight, small, rose cut diamonds complete the cluster, the outer four nested inside flat, wirework curls. This ring is large and weighty, with deeply engraved, applied, shoulder panels, whose decor echos the curls on the ring face. The ring's carved shank widens toward the base, like a pleated ribbon. Its reverse is fitted with a large, crystal-covered compartment that would have originally held a lock of hair. We love this rare and dramatic old piece, and its strong spiritualist/occultist/fortune-teller vibes!
This ring would have been commissioned by a wealthy mourner, most likely to be worn during her later, "half-mourning" period. Its condition is outstanding.
US 7 1/4
Ring face measures approx 33.5 x 22 mm; shank measures approx 10.4 mm at the shoulder and tapers to approx 4.5 mm at the base; primary diamonds (6) measure approx 3 mm; primary diamond CTW is approx .84 carats, CC range is VS-SI, G/H/I; sapphires (5) measure approx 3.5 mm; sapphire CTW is approx 1.4 carats.